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May 5, 2003 |
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Balsam Lake Mtn & Mill Brook Ridge
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Two weeks ago we were able to take advantage of the unseasonably warm 80-degree day to climb one of our favorite peaks and do some additional exploring in an unfamiliar place. Balsam Lake Mountain, elevation 3,723 ft, is on the western edge of Ulster County in the Town of Hardenburgh, and is the westernmost Catskill peak over 3,500 ft elevation. The summit of this Catskill giant is very accessible and the hike is not difficult.
We began our trip at the Mill Brook Road trailhead, about 7 road miles south of Arkville. The trailhead is at 2,600’ and the map at the information kiosk shows a three-mile hike to the summit, south on the blue-blazed Dry Brook Ridge Trail, and then west on the red-blazed Balsam Lake Mountain Trail. The trail is very wide compared to most in the Catskills because it was once a jeep road providing the state-employed fire observers access to the fire tower on the summit. The tower hasn’t been used for fire protection purposes since 1988, however the trail is used by many hikers and remains in good shape - usually. In the first quarter-mile we could tell that this time there was going to be a lot of climbing over, under, and around many downed trees from the harsh winter.
The first part of the trail is by easement going through private land, and one must be sure to stay on the trail. After a gradual climb from Mill Brook Road, the trail levels out for nearly a mile. It was quite wet where run-off from snowmelt had collected. After another gentle rise to 3,200’ (after 1.25 miles), the ground was blanketed with the wet, melting snow. The trail then bends sharply to the west and traverses a north-facing slope that had deeper snow. Dodging fallen trees, stepping over rivulets and pools of water, and trying to stay on top of the snow pack proved difficult. Many times we sank up to our knees in snow.
At 2.2 miles we reached the state land boundary and the junction with the Balsam Lake Mountain Trail. The last three-quarters of a mile to the top rises 500 ft and is a classic example of Catskill Mountain topography. Those who have hiked in the Catskills will be familiar with the pattern of a steep rise followed by a flat terrace, then another steep ascent to the next flat terrace. This stair-step topography makes for interesting changes in flora and also gives hikers multiple places to work hard and then rest.
Just after the DEC 3,500 ft elevation marker we reached the edge of the balsam fir forest. Winter had devastated many of the trees along the trail. The debris was so dense in spots that we could barely see through it, let alone hike freely. We fought our way to the summit where the warm sun and pleasant breeze rewarded us for our toils. We climbed the steps to the top of the 60 ft tower and took in one of the most magnificent views in the Catskills. Unfortunately Aaron’s dog Piper was more excited to climb up the tower than to come down, and she needed a lot of coaxing to get back to terra firma. She may certainly think twice about climbing up a fire tower again.
We continued hiking west from the summit on the recently created yellow-blazed Mill Brook Ridge Trail. The trail drops quickly, then follows the contour of the mountain, and then proceeds along the eastern end of the Mill Brook Ridge. Sandstone ledges topped with hardy yellow birch, lichens, and ferns dropped off sharply to the west. Decent views were sporadic. The hike along the ridge was extremely enjoyable. We stopped for lunch at a vista 1.9 miles from Balsam Lake Mountain. Beecher Lake was visible below us, as well as a high point on the Ridge ahead and Woodpecker Ridge to the south. After bushwhacking out to Woodpecker Ridge we turned back - gazing up at the fire tower as we headed back toward it. The fallen trees and branches made the 11-mile hike seem even longer, but there was great satisfaction in finishing the workout and knowing we made the most of a beautiful day.
- Chris and Aaron
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